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Photographing the moon with a filter?

Jokodo

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Any (amateur) astronomers?

Alright, I have this pipe dream to one day measure the moon's distance through the diurnal parallax method with my kid as soon as he's old enough to understand the math involved (basic trig, which isn't my strongest suit either so I'd rather wait till someone who does so for a living teaches him). It's probably going to be 10 years before that happens, but I'm currently in little position to make plans otherwise, why not make plans about this?

The method is fairly simple in theory: You measure the moons position against the background stars four hours before midnight in three consecutive nights, and in the second night you also measure it four hours *after* midnight. The difference from the expected position is due to your own movement as the earth rotates (unless you're at the pole, in which case this method is useless). Measuring the "error" gives you the distance to the moon in multiples of earth's radius. You need to do several nights because the moon moves around 13° a day against the background stars. If you do it at a latitude of 48° where I live and with an eight hours delay between the measurements, you should get an "error" of around 1.15° - hard to confirm by measuring its altitude, but very easy if you can match the moon's position against the background stars on a good celestial map.

That's the theory, but the practical problem is that the full (and you have to do it with a full moon) outshines basically all background stars, so it's hard to get them into the same shot. How would you go about it? Use a physical filter to dim the moon precisely cut to only cover the moon as nearly as it's possible? Any better ideas?
 
It seems to me that for what you're doing just expose for the stars. The moon will be burned off the film but how will that interfere?
 
It seems to me that for what you're doing just expose for the stars. The moon will be burned off the film but how will that interfere?

If the edges of the moon are all blurry and it appears to be twice as big as it actually is, that's much reduce the precision with which we can pinpoint it on a celestial map, methinks.
 
- Shoot a series of bracket shots, under exposures to regular exposure, if the camera can do it.
- Try HDR'ing it. Granted, there is a massive dynamic range to deal with here.
 
Just crank up the ISO (way up), set the lens wide open, and vary the shutter speed until the star(s) you're using for your measurement show up. The moon will be a solid white, but as long as your shutter speed isn't too slow, it won't show much of a blur.
 
It seems to me that for what you're doing just expose for the stars. The moon will be burned off the film but how will that interfere?

If the edges of the moon are all blurry and it appears to be twice as big as it actually is, that's much reduce the precision with which we can pinpoint it on a celestial map, methinks.

But why would it be twice as big? I've caught pretty bright things in the exposure, the edges are still properly defined even when it's way, way overexposed. (Note that the human eye sees things differently. ~25 years ago I shot some film for my wife's employer who wanted to sue the sign maker--when you looked at the sign it was hard to read because the letters seemed to blur together at night. Surprise--the prints showed the sign perfectly, it was completely clear even in the frames exposed for the nighttime environment.)

- - - Updated - - -

- Shoot a series of bracket shots, under exposures to regular exposure, if the camera can do it.
- Try HDR'ing it. Granted, there is a massive dynamic range to deal with here.

Beware that simpler HDR software won't handle this as the images will not stack properly, each will be offset.
 
It seems this can be done with polarizing filters... block most reflected sunlight (moon), but allow all direct sunlight (stars).
I used to view the moon though polarizing filters, but I don't remember seeing stars in the background or not... I think maybe not.
 
It seems this can be done with polarizing filters... block most reflected sunlight (moon), but allow all direct sunlight (stars).
I used to view the moon though polarizing filters, but I don't remember seeing stars in the background or not... I think maybe not.

Why would the moonlight be polarized? It's not shiny.

Unfortunately, the moon isn't up now so I can't grab a polarizer and go have a look.
 
It seems this can be done with polarizing filters... block most reflected sunlight (moon), but allow all direct sunlight (stars).
I used to view the moon though polarizing filters, but I don't remember seeing stars in the background or not... I think maybe not.

Why would the moonlight be polarized? It's not shiny.

Unfortunately, the moon isn't up now so I can't grab a polarizer and go have a look.

There is more than one way to skin a cat.

The light of the full moon is not polarized; but polarization is present at other phases, and is greatest in the first and third quarters.
 
If my "moon filter" for my eyepiece is not a polarizing filter, then what is it? It is designed to limit the amount of light from a full-ish moon... if I were to look unfiltered at the full moon with my light bucket of a scope, it would blind me... or at least be very unpleasant and ruin my night vision for a while. Its the terminus of the moon that is great to look at... not a full moon..

But, back to your project... what about using " * lasers * "? Like, as in those tracking lasers for aiming scopes. I have no experience with them ,but I imagine they could be used to measure an offset..
 
It seems this can be done with polarizing filters... block most reflected sunlight (moon), but allow all direct sunlight (stars).
I used to view the moon though polarizing filters, but I don't remember seeing stars in the background or not... I think maybe not.

Why would the moonlight be polarized? It's not shiny.

Unfortunately, the moon isn't up now so I can't grab a polarizer and go have a look.

There is more than one way to skin a cat.

The light of the full moon is not polarized; but polarization is present at other phases, and is greatest in the first and third quarters.

Oh, but unfortunately, this has to be done very near to the full moon - because you need to be able to observe it both several hours before and after midnight to get a long baseline.
 
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