Advice from construction knowledgable people please

[Berhuny]

I'm having my deck replaced and getting a cover built over the new one.



The workers from the company I hired let me know the frame was complete but I noticed this split board in one corner.



This whole project is costing me almost $30k and I'm wondering if I should make the workers replace this board. I don't know...am I just picky? It will be painted and covered by a composite material floor, but I'll know it's there. Is there a structural integrity issue with this split board?

I appreciate any advice.

Edit: the split board I'm talking about is the one closest to the corner that looks like it's tapered almost like an upside down ramp.

 

[thebeave]

I'm having my deck replaced and getting a cover built over the new one.

View attachment 11760

The workers from the company I hired let me know the frame was complete but I noticed this split board in one corner.

View attachment 11761

This whole project is costing me almost $30k and I'm wondering if I should make the workers replace this board. I don't know...am I just picky? It will be painted and covered by a composite material floor, but I'll know it's there. Is there a structural integrity issue with this split board?

I appreciate any advice.

Edit: the split board I'm talking about is the one closest to the corner that looks like it's tapered almost like an upside down ramp.

I doubt it would ever be a problem, but I do wonder about a contractor who would not replace it anyway, just to play it safe. Unless its in a position where its not easily replaceable without a lot of effort.

I think I would be more concerned about the fact that it appears you're not using pressure treated lumber. I thought that was standard practice. At least it is here in California.

Also, be sure to scrutinize the connection of the ledger board to your house. That is probably the biggest problem area in decks. If not done right, your home's structure can suffer major rot damage in just a few years.

 

[Bronzeage]

That crack will not be a problem, other than it will let moisture inside the board. This should be pressure treated pine. If not, the roof needs to be rain proof, so that no water ever hits the floor or the rest of the deck. Just like the interior of a house. Since it's on a top surface, and will be covered with deck boards, I would tell them to caulk the crack before putting down the deck. The metal strap in the picture takes the full load of the joist, so the structure is not compromised.

 

[thebeave]

That crack will not be a problem, other than it will let moisture inside the board. This should be pressure treated pine. If not, the roof needs to be rain proof, so that no water ever hits the floor or the rest of the deck. Just like the interior of a house. Since it's on a top surface, and will be covered with deck boards, I would tell them to caulk the crack before putting down the deck. The metal strap in the picture takes the full load of the joist, so the structure is not compromised.

I don't think he's talking about that joist with the little split at the end. I thought the same thing at first, then I reread what he wrote. He's referring to the 2x4 to the left of it that is on its side and has a chunk missing on the bottom, right side.

 

[Bronzeage]

That crack will not be a problem, other than it will let moisture inside the board. This should be pressure treated pine. If not, the roof needs to be rain proof, so that no water ever hits the floor or the rest of the deck. Just like the interior of a house. Since it's on a top surface, and will be covered with deck boards, I would tell them to caulk the crack before putting down the deck. The metal strap in the picture takes the full load of the joist, so the structure is not compromised.

I don't think he's talking about that joist with the little split at the end. I thought the same thing at first, then I reread what he wrote. He's referring to the 2x4 to the left of it that is on its side and has a chunk missing on the bottom, right side.

That has to go, just for the principle of the thing.

 

[Valjean]

That's just checking. It shouldn't affect the longitudinal strength of the beam. Actually, the knot would compromise the strength more than the checking.
http://www.mcilvain.com/how-to-prevent-cracks-in-your-large-timbers/

The key thing to remember is that these checks do not affect the structural integrity of a timber. In fact, it usually makes it stronger, because it releases the tension built up internally

 

[Berhuny]

Thank you all for the advice and information. It seems strange to me that the city or state inspector didn't make them replace the board. I agree with Bronzeage on it being a matter of principal. I've already called the owner of the construction company about the new deck being 6 inches shorter than the original. The owner came out to see for himself and then made the workers redo part of the frame so that I got the 6 inches back. I don't think the workers were happy with me but I'm one of those guys that worries about every inch I have and don't want to be shorted.

Thanks again all. I'm preparing for the workers to argue with me and maybe refuse. I can contact the owner and tell on them!

 

[ZiprHead]

It looks to me like they cut the end to accommodate the corner brace. Can't tell from the photo whether that board is structural or just something to attach siding or flashing to. If structural, I'd say it could be done better, no need to remove so much material.

 

[TV and credit cards]

You likely got your one and only accommodation from the owner. Expect him to start dodging any future calls. He's not going to loose money on the job.
I'd check the stamping on the ends of the lumber. It should be pressure treated for above grade. Pressure treated lumber is usually a greenish brown color.
And watch how they seal that flashing at the house. Think 30 mph winds trying to push water up under there. I had clearstory windows and a flat roof I learned this lesson on.
And in the future, always, no matter how difficult it is, get quotes from three contractors before going forward with the work. In my job, I've been hiring contractors on occasion for the last three years. This is the best learning experience; before the work even begins.

 

[T.G.G. Moogly]

It's a replaceable support so that's good. It's not something hidden. But for 30k you have to make the call.

Pressure treated works. My deck has been around for 30 years with no problems. Some folks opt for the laminated exterior supports that do not warp.

I don't think you have a problem. But I would caulk it or use exterior silicone or a copper plate.

 

[mrzyphl]

You don't really need pressure treated lumber if the deck is covered and dry. I'd be more worried about the 2x8 joists spanning 16ft. Ask the inspector if he checked his span charts.

 

[ZiprHead]

You don't really need pressure treated lumber if the deck is covered and dry. I'd be more worried about the 2x8 joists spanning 16ft. Ask the inspector if he checked his span charts.

I didn't see that. 2x8 for sixteen feet is not adequate.

 

[Jimmy Higgins]

Edit: the split board I'm talking about is the one closest to the corner that looks like it's tapered almost like an upside down ramp.

I'm less nervous about the issues of it being tapered, assuming it is on a joist. I am more concerned that it was installed tapered on the fly meaning some sort of design inadequacy.