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Investing and Personal Finance

Dilbert's One-Page Guide to Everything Financial


  1. Make a will.
  2. Pay off your credit cards.
  3. Get term life insurance if you have a family to support.
  4. Fund your 401k to the maximum.
  5. Fund your IRA to the maximum.
  6. Buy a house if you want to live in a house and can afford it.
  7. Put six months worth of expenses in a money-market account.
  8. Take whatever money is left over and invest 70% in a stock index fund and 30% in a bond fund through any discount broker and never touch it until retirement.
  9. If any of this confuses you, or you have something special going on (retirement, college planning, tax issues), hire a fee-based financial planner, not one who charges a percentage of your portfolio.
 
Interesting thread. I was toying with the idea of paying off my mortgage but judging from the info on here it may not be as good an "investment" as I originally thought. I wish I had more time research these things but I handed a consultation with a financial planner from a well known company. They basically had me divide my cash over a few different mutual funds. Mostly safe bets with a smaller amount in a more aggressive fund. I also contribute the max into my IRA accounts and these seem to be doing well for now and are slightly above the predicted performance. I will stress on my kids how important it is to save "properly". Not just squirrel away some money in a savings account but start planning for later life now.
 
I thought this was a good article on diversified holdings thru a group of 10 categories, that I squirreled away for my own reference:
https://www.marketwatch.com/story/t...gy-2017-05-04?siteid=bigcharts&dist=bigcharts
MW-FL821_buy_ho_20170504101602_NS.jpg

Table 2 shows the percentage makeup of each of these portfolios.

MW-FL820_buy_ho_20170504101602_NS.jpg
This ultimate combination, Portfolio 7, is a result of my longstanding commitment to find higher expected rates of return without taking additional risk.

Investors who build this portfolio using low-cost index funds, as I recommend, don't have to rely on anybody's ability to choose stocks or make any short-term economic predictions.

The perceptive reader will no doubt have noticed that all these performance statistics are based on the past. I am often asked if I expect returns like these to continue into the future.
 
I thought this was a good article on diversified holdings thru a group of 10 categories, that I squirreled away for my own reference:
https://www.marketwatch.com/story/t...gy-2017-05-04?siteid=bigcharts&dist=bigcharts
View attachment 14320

Table 2 shows the percentage makeup of each of these portfolios.

View attachment 14319
This ultimate combination, Portfolio 7, is a result of my longstanding commitment to find higher expected rates of return without taking additional risk.

Investors who build this portfolio using low-cost index funds, as I recommend, don't have to rely on anybody's ability to choose stocks or make any short-term economic predictions.

The perceptive reader will no doubt have noticed that all these performance statistics are based on the past. I am often asked if I expect returns like these to continue into the future.

That's a pretty good place to start for your stock allocation, although it's notably missing bonds, commodities, etc. Also, it looks like the allocation numbers are all simplified to nice, round, and equal values. Once you are relying on historical data like that, you might as well do the optimization to pick the best allocation instead of sticking to 10% buckets (although you do want to be careful of over-fitting). I should have the chance today to look up the historical correlations and do the math to see what the best allocation would be for those asset classes. Stay tuned.
 
It was actually closer than I thought it would be. Optimizing to just those 10 asset classes, I get the following (approximate) allocations:

US LCB: 15%
US LCV: 11%
US SCB: 7%
US SCV: 9%
REIT: 11%
Intl LCB: 15%
Intl LCV: 4%
Intl SCB: 16%
Intl SCV: 6%
Em Mkt: 6%
 
I thought this was a good article on diversified holdings thru a group of 10 categories, that I squirreled away for my own reference:
https://www.marketwatch.com/story/t...gy-2017-05-04?siteid=bigcharts&dist=bigcharts
View attachment 14320

Table 2 shows the percentage makeup of each of these portfolios.

View attachment 14319
This ultimate combination, Portfolio 7, is a result of my longstanding commitment to find higher expected rates of return without taking additional risk.

Investors who build this portfolio using low-cost index funds, as I recommend, don't have to rely on anybody's ability to choose stocks or make any short-term economic predictions.

The perceptive reader will no doubt have noticed that all these performance statistics are based on the past. I am often asked if I expect returns like these to continue into the future.

That's a pretty good place to start for your stock allocation, although it's notably missing bonds, commodities, etc. Also, it looks like the allocation numbers are all simplified to nice, round, and equal values. Once you are relying on historical data like that, you might as well do the optimization to pick the best allocation instead of sticking to 10% buckets (although you do want to be careful of over-fitting). I should have the chance today to look up the historical correlations and do the math to see what the best allocation would be for those asset classes. Stay tuned.
Yeah, I didn't think to mention bond allocations. I also have still kept about 10% in specific stocks to pretend that I am smart. It generally keeps me more humble... As I live in a higher income tax state, I tend to prefer an Oregon focused bond fund for govt bonds. Personally, I think I'll stick to keeping the ratios very roughly at the 10% breakdowns (not that I'm there yet) over optimizing, as I don't think the last 47 years will necessarily accurately project the next 20-30 years. Though the writer's Portfolio 8 is interesting as well...
 
That's a pretty good place to start for your stock allocation, although it's notably missing bonds, commodities, etc. Also, it looks like the allocation numbers are all simplified to nice, round, and equal values. Once you are relying on historical data like that, you might as well do the optimization to pick the best allocation instead of sticking to 10% buckets (although you do want to be careful of over-fitting). I should have the chance today to look up the historical correlations and do the math to see what the best allocation would be for those asset classes. Stay tuned.
Yeah, I didn't think to mention bond allocations. I also have still kept about 10% in specific stocks to pretend that I am smart. It generally keeps me more humble... As I live in a higher income tax state, I tend to prefer an Oregon focused bond fund for govt bonds. Personally, I think I'll stick to keeping the ratios very roughly at the 10% breakdowns (not that I'm there yet) over optimizing, as I don't think the last 47 years will necessarily accurately project the next 20-30 years. Though the writer's Portfolio 8 is interesting as well...

Novice question: if I don't want to be an active investor and instead just throw my money in index funds, how would that fit into this chart? Is it possible to buy indexes in these categories, or if I was going the index route would allocating my money in this way be completely irrelevant to me?

And you mention that the past won't project the future. With that said, what, if any, risks are there in attempting to invest this way now?
 
That's a pretty good place to start for your stock allocation, although it's notably missing bonds, commodities, etc. Also, it looks like the allocation numbers are all simplified to nice, round, and equal values. Once you are relying on historical data like that, you might as well do the optimization to pick the best allocation instead of sticking to 10% buckets (although you do want to be careful of over-fitting). I should have the chance today to look up the historical correlations and do the math to see what the best allocation would be for those asset classes. Stay tuned.
Yeah, I didn't think to mention bond allocations. I also have still kept about 10% in specific stocks to pretend that I am smart. It generally keeps me more humble... As I live in a higher income tax state, I tend to prefer an Oregon focused bond fund for govt bonds. Personally, I think I'll stick to keeping the ratios very roughly at the 10% breakdowns (not that I'm there yet) over optimizing, as I don't think the last 47 years will necessarily accurately project the next 20-30 years. Though the writer's Portfolio 8 is interesting as well...

Novice question: if I don't want to be an active investor and instead just throw my money in index funds, how would that fit into this chart? Is it possible to buy indexes in these categories, or if I was going the index route would allocating my money in this way be completely irrelevant to me?
The SPY ETF as the first category is truly an index (aka the SP500). #3 SCHA (or IWM) are Russell 2000 ETF's. Many categories aren't technically an index, but indexes are just categories to begin with anyway. I generally tried to find ETF's that fit the author's categories. Here is the list I generated for my own blending effort (again a work in progress as I have to keep dancing with multiple accounts between my wife and I). I had a little trouble with some of his international categories, finding a product that I thought fit. I have a Schwab account, so I don't know if the SCHV type products will be available... The author recommends an annual review for re-balancing. Depending on how little money one has invested, annual re-balancing might eat up more than its worth in the early years, due to fees. As well as a couple percent here and there being 'unbalanced' isn't that important IMPOV. But like when the Dot-Com went wild, a fund that was heavily into NASDAQ would have really needed re-balancing in the late 1999's.

#1 SPY
#2 SCHV (or more likely SCHD) large-cap value stocks
#3 SCHA, NAESX, or maybe SWSSX U.S. small-cap blend stocks
#4 VISVX U.S. small-cap value stocks
#5 REITs blend SCHH or VNQ
#6 (a) VTMGX international large-cap blend HFQAX
(b) ? international large-cap value; FNDF or VYMI
(c) ? international small-cap blend (no obvious ETF; SFILX or DFISX)
(d) ? international small-cap value SCZ or maybe SCHC
#7 Emerging markets SCHE or EEM

And you mention that the past won't project the future. With that said, what, if any, risks are there in attempting to invest this way now?
The whole point of this 10 grouping is to reduce risk and maximize gain at the same time. What I meant about past-future, is that by putting a heavier weighting on 2-3 categories that did the best in the last 47 years, one is assuming that they will remain the best in future decades. I'm not confident that it would remain true. All stocks have risks, but by blending, and choosing ETF's or funds that have a large group of holdings, any one company tanking, won't trash the whole instrument. For example VNQ has 156 holdings, with about 10% of it within another fund having 153 holdings. SCHE and EEM both have 800-900 holdings. And depending on how much one has, and one's age, and one's risk comfort level, there is varying opinions on just how much to have in bonds. Hope that helps, as I am just an amateur myself...and I had to un-learn a lot that my dad put into my head.
 
Yes, Vanguard has many index funds designed to stay within the boundaries of those asset categories.

The risks of investing like this? First, one or more of those assets will outperform over the next decade. No one knows which, but during that time, people will brag that they didn't diversify but chose the right assets from the beginning and are now richer than you. The risk is that you'll feel bad, then change your strategy to concentrate in one or two of the asset classes that are outperforming right before they being underperforming. Thus, you'll be buying high and selling low, and that's the best way to lose money.

Another risk is that over time, the asset classes will get out of balance. You will then have to look yourself in the eye and ask yourself, "Do I have the fortitude to sell my winners and sink the money into my losers so that they'll be back in balance?" If the answer is yes, then the risk will be minimized. If the answer is no, then your psychology is your worst enemy.
 
Thanks for the replies.

I've been slowly reading through The Intelligent Asset Allocator which is giving me a better idea of the mathematical side of investing, and all of the above makes sense.

Now my challenge seems to be nailing down the side of my portfolio where it's 'right and doing what's best for me' in terms of taking on risk. What seems to be throwing me off a bit is that it sounds like a properly diversified portfolio has little theoretical risk, just de facto risk in how I'll react to market changes. That being the case I don't see a lot of reason to be overly conservative with stock allocation, and yet I'm still a bit hesitant (probably a good thing).

The other question is how quickly to pay off my house. I get the argument that it's a bad investment, and yet I'm inclined to get it out of the way sooner than later. Maybe not a bad idea to put a little extra down from time to time?

I dunno, maybe when you make enough income over your lifetime all of these points are moot anyway..
 
Thanks for the replies.

I've been slowly reading through The Intelligent Asset Allocator which is giving me a better idea of the mathematical side of investing, and all of the above makes sense.

Now my challenge seems to be nailing down the side of my portfolio where it's 'right and doing what's best for me' in terms of taking on risk. What seems to be throwing me off a bit is that it sounds like a properly diversified portfolio has little theoretical risk, just de facto risk in how I'll react to market changes. That being the case I don't see a lot of reason to be overly conservative with stock allocation, and yet I'm still a bit hesitant (probably a good thing).

The other question is how quickly to pay off my house. I get the argument that it's a bad investment, and yet I'm inclined to get it out of the way sooner than later. Maybe not a bad idea to put a little extra down from time to time?

I dunno, maybe when you make enough income over your lifetime all of these points are moot anyway..

The right way to interpret it is that investments are about buying return in exchange for risk. There is the risk-free rate, which is the return you should expect in exchange for zero risk (i.e. a guaranteed return with no variability). Normally, something like the US Treasury rates are used as an approximation to the risk-free rate, under the assumption that the US will not default and there is basically a 100% chance that you will get that return.

Every investment will have a given level of return and a given level of risk (even if those are hard numbers to estimate). Among two investments with the same level of risk, you want the one with the higher return, and among two investments with the same level of return, you want the one with the lowest risk. This is why, for example, putting your money under your mattress is generally a bad investment compared with putting it in risk-free bonds, because even if they have the same risk, bonds give a positive return on investment while your mattress fund does not.

There are a bunch of ways to analyze risk vs return. For example, the  Sharpe ratio gives a basic approximation by dividing the investment's return above the risk-free rate by the risk level (volatility), which gives you an idea of how good of a deal you're getting (are your returns expensive or inexpensive with respect to their increased risk over the risk-free rate). So the Sharpe ratio for short-term US bonds should be about 0, because they give around the risk-free return. A 'mattress fund' would have a negative Sharpe ratio because we are not matching the level of return to the level of risk we are taking on. If we looked at the SP500 right now, we'd see a Sharpe ratio of about 1 (this varies depending on the chosen time interval), so you are buying about 1% of return for each 1% in volatility you take on.

So it's not that index funds are risk-free (they are definitely NOT), it's that you are compensated for taking on that risk with higher returns than the risk-free rate. Most other investments are not risk-free either, and you are shopping for the best return for your desired level of risk. Owning uncorrelated assets is useful because their risks do not directly add, and so decreases the total risk level of the portfolio, so it is generally a good idea to have a diversified portfolio. Index funds are good because they can't be too far off the risk/return curve or they'd be quickly arbitraged back. A portfolio of diversified index funds will get you the best deal (available to the average person) when it comes to trading risk for reward.

The specific allocation that works to give the best risk/return depends on the returns and risk levels of the assets, along with their correlations. Just to give an idea, here are some indexes (and associated Vanguard funds) for data from 1985-2018:

Total Stock Market - VTSMX - Sharpe Ratio 1.217
SP500 - VFINX - Sharpe Ratio 1.254
Total Bond Market - VBMFX - Sharpe Ratio 1.084

You can see that you're getting about 1% return above the risk-free rate for every 1% of risk. You can think of that as the 'market rate' for investment return.

On the other hand, if we take individual stocks over the same time period, you get a wild range of Sharpe ratios, some did well and some did poorly. On average, they got around or below 1% return for every 1% risked, so you might as well lower your volatility (and hence your risk) by taking the same return with less variance and investing in the index funds.

Here's the first few DOW stock's Sharpe ratios:
MMM: 1.178
AXP: 0.776
AAPL: 1.176
BA: 1.422
CAT: 0.769
CVX: 0.627
CSCO: 0.521
KO: 0.815
DIS: 1.003
DWDP: 0.799
GE: 0.294
 
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Thanks for the replies.

I've been slowly reading through The Intelligent Asset Allocator which is giving me a better idea of the mathematical side of investing, and all of the above makes sense.

Now my challenge seems to be nailing down the side of my portfolio where it's 'right and doing what's best for me' in terms of taking on risk. What seems to be throwing me off a bit is that it sounds like a properly diversified portfolio has little theoretical risk, just de facto risk in how I'll react to market changes. That being the case I don't see a lot of reason to be overly conservative with stock allocation, and yet I'm still a bit hesitant (probably a good thing).

The other question is how quickly to pay off my house. I get the argument that it's a bad investment, and yet I'm inclined to get it out of the way sooner than later. Maybe not a bad idea to put a little extra down from time to time?

I dunno, maybe when you make enough income over your lifetime all of these points are moot anyway..

The right way to interpret it is that investments are about buying return in exchange for risk. There is the risk-free rate, which is the return you should expect in exchange for zero risk (i.e. a guaranteed return with no variability). Normally, something like the US Treasury rates are used as an approximation to the risk-free rate, under the assumption that the US will not default and there is basically a 100% chance that you will get that return.

Every investment will have a given level of return and a given level of risk (even if those are hard numbers to estimate). Among two investments with the same level of risk, you want the one with the higher return, and among two investments with the same level of return, you want the one with the lowest risk. This is why, for example, putting your money under your mattress is generally a bad investment compared with putting it in risk-free bonds, because even if they have the same risk, bonds give a positive return on investment while your mattress fund does not.

There are a bunch of ways to analyze risk vs return. For example, the  Sharpe ratio gives a basic approximation by dividing the investment's return above the risk-free rate by the risk level (volatility), which gives you an idea of how good of a deal you're getting (are your returns expensive or inexpensive with respect to their increased risk over the risk-free rate). So the Sharpe ratio for short-term US bonds should be about 0, because they give around the risk-free return. A 'mattress fund' would have a negative Sharpe ratio because we are not matching the level of return to the level of risk we are taking on. If we looked at the SP500 right now, we'd see a Sharpe ratio of about 1 (this varies depending on the chosen time interval), so you are buying about 1% of return for each 1% in volatility you take on.

So it's not that index funds are risk-free (they are definitely NOT), it's that you are compensated for taking on that risk with higher returns than the risk-free rate. Most other investments are not risk-free either, and you are shopping for the best return for your desired level of risk. Owning uncorrelated assets is useful because their risks do not directly add, and so decreases the total risk level of the portfolio, so it is generally a good idea to have a diversified portfolio. Index funds are good because they can't be too far off the risk/return curve or they'd be quickly arbitraged back. A portfolio of diversified index funds will get you the best deal (available to the average person) when it comes to trading risk for reward.

The specific allocation that works to give the best risk/return depends on the returns and risk levels of the assets, along with their correlations. Just to give an idea, here are some indexes (and associated Vanguard funds) for data from 1985-2018:

Total Stock Market - VTSMX - Sharpe Ratio 1.217
SP500 - VFINX - Sharpe Ratio 1.254
Total Bond Market - VBMFX - Sharpe Ratio 1.084

You can see that you're getting about 1% return above the risk-free rate for every 1% of risk. You can think of that as the 'market rate' for investment return.

On the other hand, if we take individual stocks over the same time period, you get a wild range of Sharpe ratios, some did well and some did poorly. On average, they got around or below 1% return for every 1% risked, so you might as well lower your volatility (and hence your risk) by taking the same return with less variance and investing in the index funds.

Here's the first few DOW stock's Sharpe ratios:
MMM: 1.178
AXP: 0.776
AAPL: 1.176
BA: 1.422
CAT: 0.769
CVX: 0.627
CSCO: 0.521
KO: 0.815
DIS: 1.003
DWDP: 0.799
GE: 0.294

I guess given all of the above the bolded is a case of figuring out how much risk I would like to or should be taking on given my financial situation. May be something that I should spend some time with..
 
I guess given all of the above the bolded is a case of figuring out how much risk I would like to or should be taking on given my financial situation. May be something that I should spend some time with..

Yup, that is the fundamental question that all investors need to answer. By owning an appropriate basket of assets, you can maximize your returns for any chosen level of risk. If you're planning these investments for a specific event (like retirement), then the major factors to consider are time horizon and personal psychological risk tolerance. The longer your time horizon, the more risk you can 'safely' take on while being confident your finances can withstand any probable drawdown. You can avoid a lot of the psychological factors by setting everything to run automatically, and only look at the accounts to rebalance once a year or so.
 
I guess given all of the above the bolded is a case of figuring out how much risk I would like to or should be taking on given my financial situation. May be something that I should spend some time with..

Yup, that is the fundamental question that all investors need to answer. By owning an appropriate basket of assets, you can maximize your returns for any chosen level of risk. If you're planning these investments for a specific event (like retirement), then the major factors to consider are time horizon and personal psychological risk tolerance. The longer your time horizon, the more risk you can 'safely' take on while being confident your finances can withstand any probable drawdown. You can avoid a lot of the psychological factors by setting everything to run automatically, and only look at the accounts to rebalance once a year or so.

Thanks for all of the info. Again, much appreciated.

I need to get back to reading/researching again. I had a burst in the fall but between this, the wedding, and managing my career it's slow-going.
 
Anyone here track your net worth/finances? What do you use?

Since I got out of grad school I've been using some Google Sheets I made to track assets and liabilities, and to graph my net worth data and get growth statistics. I also put everything into GnuCash and make sure all the balances line up each month (yay double-entry accounting). I debated using Mint, but until they get read-only access to financial institutions, I don't feel comfortable giving them my actual credentials for full access to all of my accounts (although I hear they are working with the big banks to make that a reality).

I'll also use the free credit reporting on my credit cards along with creditkarma, creditsesame, etc to keep track of my credit score.
 
By far, the VAST majority of people are best served by putting their money into the lowest-fee index funds they can find, and then not touching it. It's really, really hard to do better than that consistently.

With one caveat (see below), I think this is excellent advice.

Curious, what are your thoughts on dollar-cost averaging?

You needn't follow an exact "dollar cost" regime. The important thing is that you increase your stock holdings gradually, and, when it's time, decrease them gradually.
Why? 'Buy Low' is better than 'Buy High' but if you time the market yourself you'll be lucky to have even a fifty-fifty chance of getting it right. By investing gradually (or dollar-cost averaging over a period of several years), you end up with a 'Buy Average' result. Not as good as 'Buy Low', of course, but better and less risky than the typical investor could hope for.

One reason to pick individual stocks, instead of broad indexes, is for fun! But be aware that amateur stock-picking may be a very expensive hobby. If you do pick individual stocks (or sectors), I recommend choosing stocks in which you have personal confidence — companies you'll be happy to own for the very long term. Look at a list of Warren Buffet's stocks for ideas since he also likes to pick sound, profitable companies for the long term.

... so they don't actually have any reasonable idea when they should or should not be buying and selling products, or why. This has a double whammy effect because it increases stress and uncertainty during market down-turns.

I rode out the down-turns of 2001 and 2008 with no stress or worry, because much of my savings was in the form of "low beta" stocks like Johnson & Johnson (JNJ). JNJ does about as well as S&P500 in the long run, but outperforms the index during down-turns.

I'm not sure I'd even heard of "low beta" when I chose JNJ, Gillette, Philip Morris, etc. I picked them for success, financial strength and because of a personal feeling that the companies would be around for a long while!
 
You've been given some good advice, but I wanted to add a word about paying off a mortgage early. It may not be the best thing to do investment wise, but as one who chose to pay her mortgage off about ten years early, I can only say that the emotional satisfaction of knowing that you will always have a roof over your head is well worth any possible missed investment returns. I had to talk my husband into it, but he has thanked me time and time again. We live in a very low tax area so we won't have any problems paying our taxes despite now living on retirement savings and SS. I know too many people that are in their 50s and 60s that still have many years left on their mortgages, including one of my own sisters. I enjoy the security we have without a mortgage to worry about.
 
The stock market is on the slide. I've "lost" quite a lot of money across all my mutual funds :mad: But since the bulk of my money is in IRA accounts I'll just have to wait it out. When would it be a good time to buy ? Now or wait until it slips even further ? Can't go down to much more, can it ?! :eek:
 
The stock market is on the slide. I've "lost" quite a lot of money across all my mutual funds :mad: But since the bulk of my money is in IRA accounts I'll just have to wait it out. When would it be a good time to buy ? Now or wait until it slips even further ? Can't go down to much more, can it ?! :eek:

Of course it can. Even if it makes no sense for it to.

The market can remain irrational longer than you can remain solvent.
 
My only "how I made money in the stock market" story.

A long time ago, the company where I worked introduces a 401k program, and as a long time employee, I was vested at the start up. This was in the 90's, so no internet, which means the only information was TV news and print media. I chose a fairly aggressive fund profile, with 30% in Pacific rim stocks. Since it was all brand new, there wasn't much money, but my employer was matching my deposits, so the principal grew fast. The management company had phone in system, where a member could call up and go through a phone menu, and then punch buttons to move money from one fund to another. One day, my buddy tells me the Hong Stock market has crashed. He's been on the phone for an hour, getting out of Pacific rim, before he takes the hit. He did this kind of thing all the time, so he knew all about it. I chose the apathetic strategy and did nothing.

The way it worked, 30% of my contributions continued to buy Pacific rim stocks, which were very low. When the market recovered, my fund had gained well above average, much more than my buddy. I don't recommend this as an investment strategy, but the most money I ever made was because I had no idea what I was doing.
 
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